Tables of Contents: The Isle of Eigg and Why Its Worth the Journey
The Isle of Eigg: The Best of the Small Isles
Every January, during the quiet off-season, I like to research places I’ve never been before to see if there’s something unique that could take my tours to the next level. This year, my travels took me to the Small Isles: Rum, Muck, Eigg and Canna. Each with its own unique character. While I’d visited Rum and Canna before, the one that truly stood out on this trip was the Isle of Eigg.
Although pronouced as “egg” from what we understand it has a very different meaning. Its believed to be either the Gaelic for “notched” or the Norse for “sharp-edged”. Either distinction describes the unique mountains that span the breadth of the island.
It’s hard to put into words just how much I loved my three short days there. From hiking to An Sgùrr, the island’s highest point, to exploring Massacre Cave and Cathedral Cave, from watching Sea Eagles soar overhead to sharing a pint with locals at the Galmisdale Bay Café, every moment felt unforgettable. And as it happens, quite a few locals share the same second name as yours truly a small coincidence that made the island feel even more like home.
In this blog I want to share with you that the Isle of Eigg may be a Small Isle but it has a huge personality.
Getting to the Isle of Eigg
Reaching the Isle of Eigg is part of the adventure. Its the extra effort that makes this place feel a little more remote and special. Certainly away from the summer crowds on the Isle of Skye. But to be fair it’s surprisingly straightforward to get to if you know what to expect. All journeys to Eigg are by passenger-only ferry, so don’t expect your car to be coming along for the ride. Most visitors travel with CalMac Ferries from Mallaig or during the summer the MV Sheerwater runs regular services from Arisaig. Making it easy to fit a short trip or day visit into your schedule.
Timing can make a big difference depending on when you visit. In summer, ferries are more frequent, and the weather usually cooperates. In winter, services are less regular, and rough seas can sometimes cause cancellations (which I thankfully avoided by 1 day) so it’s wise to check the CalMac timetable in advance and allow extra time for flexibility.
Once you’re on Eigg, getting around is refreshingly simple. The island is small enough that walking lets you reach most of the main sights, which is how I explored it. For those who prefer a little extra speed and less effort bikes and e-bikes are available to hire from £20, making it easy to get the beautiful beaches of Laig and Singing Sands without tiring yourself out.
When you are on board one of the boats. You can stay inside for some food or if its a nice day do get out and spot some sea life from the ferry. Dolphins, Minke Whale and Porpoises are keen visitors to these waters.
CalMac Ferry to Mallaig
Island Communities: Life on Eigg
Even though it isn’t the largest of the Small Isles, with a population of just over 110 people, the Isle of Eigg is the most populated. That balance says a lot about the island. Life here feels active and lived-in, shaped more so by the people than the wildlife which you can expect on Rum (Red Deer) and Canna (seasonal seabirds including puffins). There’s a real sense that this is first and foremost a working community.
At its heart, Eigg is a farming island. Crofting and small-scale agriculture as well as fishing still play an important role in daily life. Sheep and cattle are a familiar sight, and many residents balance farming with other roles, from hospitality and conservation to crafts and renewable energy. Tourism also plays a vital role in sustaining life on the island especially in the summer, supporting local jobs, accommodation, cafés, guides, and transport and helping ensure that people can continue to live and work here year-round.
One of the most remarkable things about Eigg is that it’s entirely community owned. In 1997, after years of mistreatment by their landlords and a declining population, the residents teamed up with the Highland Council and the Scottish Wildlife Trust to buy the island themselves. It was a huge moment not just for Eigg, but for Scotland more widely, becoming a powerful example of what community ownership can achieve. Near the pier at Galmisdale, a simple commemorative stone marks the moment the island officially was rescued and put into the hands of its people
Commemorative Stone
Meeting the Locals and the Isle of Eigg Brewery
A large part of getting a feel for a place is to get amongst the locals. So on the first evening I headed over to the only café/pub on the island, the Glamisdale Café and Bar. And what a cracking establishment it was. Local beer from the Isle of Eigg Brewery partnered with Guinness on tap, a pool table in the middle and a food menu with some classic pub scran to relinquish energy expended on days hiking around the island.
Before I new it, I was having a good craic with the locals sharing stories and learning more about their incredible wee island. There’s a warmth here that feels completely genuine. People are proud of their island, but more quiet confidence that comes from caring for a place together.
Whether its the brewery which I walked past but never got to visit as it was closed or the islands renewable energy from Eigg’s own grid, another reminder of how self-sufficient and forward-thinking this community is. For visitors, this strong sense of community is something you feel rather than just observe. It’s woven into everyday life on the island and it’s a big part of what makes Eigg feel so special long after you’ve left.
Exploring Eigg’s Caves: Massacre Cave and Cathedral Cave
Day two was all about caves and not just any caves, but two with stories that really stick with you.
Both are an easy win from Galmisdale Bay: a 3.6km (2.2 mile) round trip that’s well worth the effort. If navigation isn’t your strong suit (no judgement), Walkhighlands has the route which you can download beforehand.
On the way to the coast I couldn’t believe my eyes as I spotted a hunting kestrel on the left and a white-tailed sea eagle soaring over head. Just another day in the office for those living on the island. But for me it was fascinating. After I finally put my camera away I marched down to the bottom of the sea cliffs and carefully walked east. Before I knew it I was outside the monstrous Cathedral Cave which is so big its clear from the sea.
Its name has transitioned from the Gaelic “Uamh na Chrabhaidh”, which translates to “the cave of devotion” to the modern name of Cathedral Cave. This is because the cave hid Catholics worshipping in secret for many years after the Protestant Reformation. It was hidden from those on the land and the perfect size and shelter to hold Mass away from danger.
Cathedral Cave and An Sgurr
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The Story of Massacre Cave
Having read so much about the history of Massacre Cave. I thought it would be easier to find. Confession time: I actually walked straight past. Completely missed it. Twice. When I am on a mission to see everything is doesn’t stop me being as dizzy as a duck.
It wasn’t until I sent the drone up and scanned the coastline that I finally spotted it. From the outside, it doesn’t look like much at all because you only see its size when you crawl inside, it opens up into a cave around 79 metres long. And that’s where one of the darkest chapters of Eigg’s history took place.
Eigg is well known to historians because of the long-running feud between the MacDonalds of Clanranald and the MacLeods. From what I understand in March 1577, a group of MacLeods landed on Eigg and began harassing the local women. The MacDonalds quickly seized them, tied them up, and sent them away in their own boat a clear message to behave, or don’t come back.
Unfortunately, the MacLeods somehow made it safely back to Dunvegan Castle. Ian Dubh, was furious and immediately set plans for revenge. Ian Dubh gathered his men and sailed for Eigg. But the MacDonalds saw the galley coming. Sensing trouble all 395 inhabitants of the island hid inside this narrow cave with this incredibly secluded entrance what we now call Massacre Cave.
The MacLeods landed and searched relentlessly. Days passed. Then weeks. After nearly three weeks, just as they were about to give up, they spotted a lone figure in the distance. They chased them to the shore, where footprints in the snow led straight to the cave.
They blocked the entrance with sticks and kindling and set it alight, believing it would force people out. Instead, the smoke suffocated and killed everyone inside. Giving the cave its grim name.
Massacre Cave
An Sgùrr The Top of Eigg
Now for the highlight of the whole trip and very cheekily saved for last is An Sgùrr. This is the moment Eigg really shows off.
At first glance, An Sgùrr looks like a proper mountain plonked on a small island… but geologically, it’s doing something far more interesting. What you’re walking on up there isn’t a normal mountain at all it’s the solidified remains of a lava flow. Millions of years ago, molten pitchstone poured into an ancient valley, cooled, and hardened. Over time, the softer land around it eroded away, leaving this dramatic, blade-like ridge standing proud above the island. In simple terms everything else disappeared and An Sgùrr refused to budge. As you can now probably understand this is how the island gets its name.
The hike-to-view ratio here is nothing short of phenomenal. This isn’t a slog-for-hours situation it’s a steady, rewarding climb where every step feels like it’s paying you back in scenery.
I headed up for sunset, which I’d recommend if you have the time. All in, walkhighlands recommends 3–4 hour walk, depending on pace. I took 2 hours 50 minutes including a blissful 50 minutes at the top, doing very little except grinning and soaking it all in.
Spent the time cheesing down from the summit looking over the mountains of Rum where Eigg’s lava erupted from. The dramatic skyline of Skye and the distant outline of the Scottish mainland. Wow Scotland, you are the gift that keeps on giving!
An Sgurr
